The (Mis)Adventures of a Canadian Princess

Monday, October 31, 2005

Misadventures of a Canadian princess - Part 2: Da pictures

Finally, here are some pictures to enjoy (courtesy of Stu Finn)!


The ACTS team in Comox, British Columbia during our week of orientation. Top row (LtoR): Mike, Phillip, Richard, Stu. Middle: Brad, Kimberly, Christa, Ricky. Front: Ida, Stacy, Amanda, meee!


The ACTS team at the equator on the way to Mbarara.


A typical Ugandan meal: The yellow stuff is matooke, the purple is g-nut (groundnut) sauce, the white is posho, and the brown is fried enkoko (= chicken).


Fixing a busted tire on the way to Rubingo. Notice the curious villagers watching Richard and Mike looking for a spare. Always be friendly and wave! You never know when you'll need all those bystanders to help you in a pinch (kids included...they're pretty strong).


Stu performing E.coli testing on Canada House's water in very aseptic conditions (notice the food on the counter! This is the kitchen of Canada House in Mbarara).


Hiking up to the water source of the Rubingo area gravity-flow water system...very steep and very sweaty! Previous construction workers lugged up on their backs, sand and other construction materials (inluding a huge plastic tank) on the same goat-path in their sandals!


Sugar-cane martial arts...


Absorbing information via osmosis.


Laughing until crying: Jovanice, Rose and Johnson. Just another workday!


The clouds of Mordor...dark clouds like these usually lead to torrential downpours that last for 15 minutes to several hours.


Ahhh...beautiful Ugandan skies. I love it in the countryside.

The Silly Bug bites!

I was brainstorming in preparation for writing my blog and the following things just poured out of my head. Really, there is nothing wrong with me...the Lariam is really not making me insane!

Enjoy the following bouts of silliness of the Rubingo crew!

  • Bowel movements: everyone seems like they are trying to regulate themselves – CONSTIPATION EXHILARATION SEIZES THE NATION IN OUR FRUSTRATION FOR VOLUNTARY INTESTINAL MOVEMENTATION (da silly bug has bitten again)…
  • Belching in front of Richard to make him uncomfortable…
  • Mike’s tendency to find much humour in gaseous situations…SBV = silent but violent
  • Johnson's sayings: “That’s fine”, “that’s grrrreat” (like Tony the Tiger of Frosted Flakes fame), "Hello madam"
  • Mandazi: great fried dough-balls of happiness
  • Apollo's favourite joke in relation to Mrs. Dash seasoning:
    • Where’s Mr. Dash?
    • Mr. Dash dashed
  • G-nut sauce and the special love…
  • Outdoor showers in the moonlight…or someone using up all the hot water
  • Laundry always being hung around my tent, especially the boys’ underwear and socks
  • Uncontrollable fits of laughter with Rose, Johnson and Jovanice
  • Being bitten by the “silly bug”, sugar cane martial arts
  • Taxi and special hire – what’s the difference??
  • I am an African Queen – being called a “negro” at DK’s store by James
  • A reason to celebrate – there’s GOAT for dinner!
  • “Princessing out”...music WILL save your sanity
  • Pringles (paprika flavour), U & Me bars, Ribena (in tetra packs no less!)
  • Kim’s dancing face (ooooohhh…shake that booty yo’ mama gave you!)
  • Walk a mile in their shoes: the two hour hike to Kakongora widow’s meeting
  • Running up the bloody hill to make a cell phone call…buns of steel…
  • ”How many bars do you have?” in reference to cell phone signal reception
  • Peanut butter, Nutella eaten in less than a week
  • Goats or sheep getting in the way of the truck while driving…DINNER!
  • Driving up steep hills and “wranking” the truck into 4Wheel Drive (“Just give’er!”); affectionately calling our trucks Bessy 1 and Bessy 2

Misadventures of a Canadian princess

This morning, I had sour cream and chive-flavoured Pringles for breakfast. Yesterday and the day before, I was able to cook whatever I wanted for dinner. Ahhh…the luxury of having a mini-break!

This is the third day into my six day break from working in the villages of Rubingo Parish. I’m supposed to be doing some work-related research and reporting, but so far have not mustered up any willingness to tackle the drearier tasks of this time-off. We bumpety-bumped our way into Mbarara-town on Thursday morning, with me being squished in the midst of three Ugandan staff members in the back of our Toyota Hi-Lux pickup truck. Now, I’ve been accused of having a booty, but it certainly is more of a “matooke butt”, a moniker created by Kimberly (my teammate) now that I have been eating more starch than I can ever remember. This leads to me to explore three threads of thought: ekibuuno (= butt), beans and rice everyday and driving on Ugandan backcountry roads.

First, let me discuss the booty, or mine, at least. Although not prized in North America as much as in other cultures (say, Brazilian), I have been complemented by various wonderful people about the beauty of my booty. But mine is diminutive compared to some that I’ve seen here in Uganda. I learned the meaning of ekibuuno, and it is now a term used with hilarity amongst Rose, Jovanice (the two local staff), Kimberly and myself. We call our ekibuunomatooke butts” because we are always being fed matooke, which is a dish sacred to our Ugandan friends: mashed green plantains steamed in banana leaves. If it is soft enough, it tastes like mashed potatoes (but you have to try hard to imagine it!). We also use the name “matooke butt” to refer to the level of inactivity that can occur over the course of a week – I would describe my daily routine as more sedentary than that back home in Canada! A day would unfold like this: breakfast at 7am, ready to visit homes or widows’ groups by 8:30am, in the pickup truck and on the road by 9am, sitting in a meeting until 12:30noon, back at camp for lunch at 1pm (matooke, rice, beans), in the pickup truck again at 2:30pm to head towards another meeting and then back for chai (=afternoon tea-time) by 5pm. Of course, dinner at 7pm consists of another round of starch (matooke, posho, rice and irish potatoes). So the extent of exercise in any given day is climbing up or down the hill at camp, climbing in and out of the truck and walking to and from my meetings. Hence, matooke butt!

The second thread leads me to discuss the food I eat everyday: beans and rice, rice and beans, beans, beans and more rice! The first two weeks of adjusting to the food were interesting: we would wake up to a breakfast of…tea and boiled eggs. Lunch and dinner would invariably consist of some combination of starches: rice, posho (boiled maize flour in cake-form), matooke or potatoes. The type of bean used (chickpeas or kidney beans?) and the presence or absence of cabbage would be the only variety added to our communal meal-times. I don’t blame Rachel, our cook, for lack of imagination. But to break the sacred code of starch and beans is like forbidding a Brit from ever having another cuppa. You can imagine the level of excitement when we discovered we had goat for dinner one night…I even wrote that event down in my journal! But I have discovered that the combination of of Mrs. Dash seasoning and Top Up Tomato Sauce (say it: to-mah-to…) adds just enough flavour sensations that I look forward to the next meal of beans and rice.

The third subject is driving on backcountry Uganda roads. This is a serious matter, not to be undertaken by amateurs. Like me. Who freaked out so much on her first day of driving in the backroads. Yes, I AM a princess…and from that day forward, I have used the phrase “princessing out”, to refer to my reaction to run and hide in response to situations of overwhelming and life-threatening circumstances. Don’t get me wrong…I am a competent and experienced driver but my Canadian experience of driving on smoothly-paved asphalt roads nor my one day of driving briefly in Mbarara – NOTHING prepared me for the level of stress and the poor conditions of the road that first day of driving.

Picture this: Kimberly and I had the task of transporting bricks with Johnson and Rose (our local counterparts) to various parts of the community. So we merrily loaded the Toyota Hi-Lux pickup with over 100 bricks (each weighing more than 5 pounds). Now the thing you need to realize about these backroads is that they are STEEP…some are inclined at almost 45 degree angles and they are pockmarked with deep and long potholes. So not your average driving situation, unless you’re a Ugandan. As I was the only driver that day, I ended up making four trips with bricks (bricks...bricks...said in a Larry Smith voice) to two different locations. Again, let me remind you that it was my first day EVER driving on rural roads in Uganda. At one of the destinations, the truck felt like it would slide down the embankment I tried to park on and into the adjacent house. (That is one recurring nightmare that I have: I lose control of the truck and it smashes one of the mudhouses that dot every community). The return trip to pick up bricks was the most intimidating the first time: the hill leading up the churchyard where the bricks are stored is angled at at least 35-40 degrees. I was in 2nd gear at the base of the hill, and was slowly chugging up when I felt the engine starting to sloooooooow down. Panicking, I shoved the truck into 1st and gassed it...the hill is so steep I could barely see past the dashboard. Fortunately, I didn't stall and we made it up the hill in one piece.

But the adventure continued that day. Returning to camp exhausted and frazzled after a solid five hours of loading and unloading bricks and navigating the roads, we rested briefly for lunch. Then we (Kimberly, Rose, Johnson and I) headed out to one of the farthest communities in the Buranga cell to visit with a man who owns a fish pond. On the way, I encountered a man filling the potholes in the road by scraping dirt around with a forklift. Unfortunately, a large pile of dirt blocked the way. He attempted to clear a path and then I steeled myself as I gingerly started driving through the remaining mounds of dirt...and proceeded to get extremely stuck. The more I attempted to navigate through the mess, the closer I got to the edge of the road, which was a fair drop to the bottom. I didn't know who close I was to the edge until Kimberly got out and took pictures of the situation with her digital camera. I was SO frazzled that Johnson called over the forklift operator who jumped in, switched on the 4-wheel drive and got us unstuck.

We arrived in one piece at the man's fish pond, where we slid down a muddy hill and proceeded to stand in a miserable hut for an hour while it poured outside (this being rainy season). There were at least twenty of us huddled in the hut, with the man's family and neighbours peering curiously at the two muzungu who dared venture out in the rain to talk about fish, no less. I was cold, damp and hungry. And on the return trip home, I encounted the same pile of dirt, which I got stuck in AGAIN! Fortunately, a man driving his sedan was able to help me out and I was able to get back to camp and declare the rest of the evening devoted to "princessing out": listening to my CD player (ahhh...nothing like Mariah Carey or Ludacris - Loodah- to bliss out to) and eating from my stash of granola bars.

So, in ending, here are some tips for driving on rural Ugandan roads that I have since picked up:

1. Wave to every and all villagers you see when out driving (you never know when you will need an entire village to push you out of a muddy mess...trust me...it happened recently).
2. Talk to your truck and always kiss it once you make it up a seemingly impossible hill.
3. You will always end up having extra passengers standing/sitting in the back of your pickup truck, so drive with caution - you don't want to pitch someone over the side by driving too fast.
4. With regards to #3, loud banging on the roof when having people in the back, means that you've already driven past their house...so pay attention!
5. Learn to squish your ekibuuno (=bum) into the smallest of spaces if you ever end up riding in the back of a truck or car...if there are less than five people in the back, there is STILL space for more!


Thursday, October 27, 2005

Return to civilization...

If you heard a sigh of relief, it was the sound that escaped from me after I bit into a big juicy hamburger today at the Agip Motel Restaurant. Yum...cow never tasted so good as it did today!

This posting is a short one, to announce my arrival back in civilization (known as Mbarara-town) after almost three weeks living in rural Rubingo Parish. I'll be connected to the internet and be able to use my mobile phone (# is 256-078-759-014...call me! Do you sense the desperation...haha!). Fine print (as always): I'm in town from Thursday, October 28 until Tuesday, November 1, after which I will be back in the sticks and will not have internet access and only sporadic mobile phone access.

So I will collect my thoughts and impressions of my first few weeks in rural Uganda, and post those stories very soon! Thanks for the comments posted...made me laugh out loud and made people in this internet cafe look at me strangely!


Ciao!

Thursday, October 06, 2005

Agandi, agandi!

It's really hard to believe that I've been in Uganda for only three days...I was writing an email to ACTS' director and was trying to figure out how long I had been here. Two weeks? One week? Three DAYS!

Today was quite an eventful day. The highlight was driving for the first time on an African road, on a manual pickup truck that had absolutely no power-steering (Yulia, worse than anything you've experienced!). For my work, I will be responsible for driving local community members to do presentations on topics like good agricultural practices so it was high time I experienced the real deal. To be honest, it was really easy, with the exceptions of staying on the left side of the road (had a scare already) and using all my might to turn the bloody wheel. Apollo, who took Brad and I driving, kept repeating, "Stay on your left! Stay on your left!". A few minutes after Brad took the wheel, we were flagged down by young police officers who jumped on the back of the truck and got a lift to the nearest intersection. Talk about pressure not to screw up your first Ugandan driving experience!

For the moment, I am living in Canada House, outside of Mbarara-town. After a miscommunication with a taxi driver (who we thought was asking for too high a fare) we ended up walking an hour into town to have lunch, pick up supplies and read up on emails. Talk about a walking zoo of muzungus (= foreigner)! Drivers hollered at us, fellow walkers either stared or smiled shyly after we said, "Agandi!", which is Runyankore for "What's up?". During the hour, I was befriended by a man called Frank who insisted on giving me his phone number and having me call him once I arrived in my village of Rubingo. I wasn't wearing my wedding band (a fake one) but I told him a little white lie and told him I was already married, although I wasn't wearing any proof of it.

For those of you who have experienced my double alarm system when living with me (meaning I love to sleep), you'll be amazed to learn that I have been rising at 5am EVERY DAY! I sleep no later than 10pm because there's not much to do after dark, so I'm sure that helps. I've been able to get up, read my Bible and journal all before the sun comes up. Then I can take a walk and see locals doing their morning things: children walking to school, men tending to their small gardens, cows being milked.

My two days spent in Kamapla seem like quite a blur already, but it is an interesting town set on several hills. From my guesthouse, I could see two other hills. The thing that impressed me the most was the relative quiet of the city in the early morning. For a capital city, it is one of the quietest I've visited. I could hear the roosters crow and a man calling the Moslem faithful to morning prayer. Very peaceful. In our yard, there was even an avocado tree and lime tree!

I have another day and a half left in Mbarara before I set out for Rubingo, where I will be living for the majority of my time in Uganda. I'm excited to finally see where I will be living and working, so stay tuned!

Ciao for now!

Saturday, October 01, 2005

The countdown begins...

Well, well...if it isn't the day before I ship out (literally) and get on my way to Uganda. After a week of intense orientation, I can say that I have an elevator speech ready about what I will be doing in Uganda. In a nutshell, I'm going to be working with locals in the Rubingo village-area to develop cash crops (neem, vanilla, moringa etc.) and freshwater fish farming (tilapia), and to promote sustainable gardening practices and fuel efficient stoves. [Should you be reading this - ahem, Kirill - and know of people who are doing this type of work in Uganda, please tell me! Much appreciated!]

The past few days have been quite intense as we (the ACTS team) have been planning and setting objectives for our various projects. At the Rubingo site, we (CIDA interns = me, Stu, Kimberly, and Mike) are working on what is called the Clearwater Communities Project. The engineering focus for the area - putting in a gravity-flow system to bring water via pipes to villages - is wrapping up in the near future and the focus is shifting to educating people on healthy practices related to water sanitation, HIV/AIDS, sustainable agriculture etc.

What will be interesting to see is how much of our preparation will be put into practice. Having never set foot in Africa, there's only so much I can anticipate to occur. So I'm adopting a "hakuna matata" attitude and looking forward to hooking up with our local ACTS counterparts. You'll be hearing about Jovanice quite a bit, I'm sure - she is my Rubingo counterpart.

So, sit back, relax and stay tuned to my stories. As I wrote earlier, we are "shipping out" via BC Ferries from Vancouver Island back to the mainland, and then busing it to the airport. I'll be losing two whole days to travel, but shout-outs to Mo and Craig for keeping me company at YVR and Heathrow.

Thanks for the comments and keep'em coming!

Before I sign out, a couple of shout-outs (Flo - I think of you when I write "shout out") to people and places that I've enjoyed while in Courtenay...

1. David Moore (director of ACTS): a.k.a. "Daddy" to our team...if you're considering doing development work in Africa, considering connecting with this man. Thanks, David, for a superb orientation and for creating such a positive place to leap off from and begin our adventures!

2. Sue at Shantz Haus Hostel: v. cozy place to crash if you're hanging around Courtenay and v. close to amenities. Thanks, Sue, for making our stay in BC so enjoyable! Gizmo and Jake are also the cutest feline people I've met (no offense, Maggie ;P).

Local stores to check out if you're around town:
3. Valhalla Pure Outfitters: a BC original, I've learned. Good selection of stuff, including the Breast-Pocket shirt from Royal Robbins ($$ but has security features) I purchased there. Ben, you were right...a BP shirt is essential for travelling (you gotta read the "Ode to the Breast Pocket"!).

4. Thrifty Foods store: another BC thing...I love that they name their gift card the"smile" card. And they have a great selection of organic foods (yum, organic bananas). And Island Fresh dairy products are great too. Mmmm...food...

5. Last, but not least, thanks to Viv for the great job on my postcards!

So farewell for now...thanks for all your prayers and good thoughts. I'll connect with y'all again when I'm in Uganda!

Ruth